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The children's menu as the downfall of Western culture (or something like that)

Categories: Fun & activities, Places to go, Eating & nutrition, Development

We're about to enter a new culinary phase at my house. This summer, at least four nights a week, my sons (who are seven and five) will eat what my husband and I are eating for dinner. No exceptions, no substitutions, and no complaints.

Before you berate me for taking so long to get to this point (yes, my oldest son is SEVEN and yes he's been eating dinner every night since he came home from the hospital, and YES, I have been making him a SEPARATE MEAL for most of that time), let me tell you this: my son has some serious sensory issues, many of which are related to food, particularly taste and texture. He also has anxiety issues, which mean that he is quite literally afraid to try new foods because the fear that they might taste or feel weird can be overwhelming. Two years ago, the mere suggestion that he have some sweet potato or broccoli or pork chop on his plate would cause him to become hysterical; now, I can serve him anything and while he will leave it where I put it, he will only rarely even taste it. And by "taste" I mean "touch it to the very tip of his tongue as quickly as possible and then slug down the rest of his milk to drown out any remaining particles of food that MIGHT have gotten in his mouth." Okay, I exaggerate, but not much. Really.

Yesterday, when I read David's Kamp's essay "Don't Point That Menu at My Child," I found myself nodding along. Kamp writes that after an initial love affair with the children's menu, "I came to the realization that America is in the grips of a nefarious chicken-finger pandemic, in which a blandly tasty foodstuff has somehow become the de facto official nibble of our young." He goes on to say that 'Far from being an advance, I've concluded, the standard children's menu is regressive, encouraging children (and their misguided parents) to believe that there is a rigidly delineated 'kids' cuisine' that exists entirely apart from grown-up cuisine."

Kamp writes about how, when he was a child, there were no children's menus, and no alternative dinners in most American homes. We ate what we were served, and if we didn't like it, we were at least expected to be polite about it. This summer, we will be trying to teach our son that same lesson--that food is good, even foods you don't think you will like initially, and that the dinner table isn't about getting what you want, but about being part of a community of people who are sharing a meal. While I can't (entirely) blame the ubiquitous kids' menu for my son's limited eating, I think Kamp is right that we have been seduced by kid cuisine and have lost that sense that food is more than just stuff that comes in nugget form.

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